workbench d2

Inlet Porting

This is a decription about inlet porting

CHASIS TIPS 1

CHASSIS TIPS:
Stock Car Q&A with Michael Leone

QUESTION: When shortening the rear upper trailing arms
to change the pinion angle, it seems to bind up the
upper arms due to their shortened length. They seem to
need to be pinched together more in order to have the
correct angles and movement. Any thoughts and
suggestions would be helpful.

ANSWER: Moving the holes does create some bind, no easy
way around it, but there are some things that you can
do that will help.

First of all you can't go too far, maybe an inch or two
max. When you drill the holes, do them with the arms in
the car, at proper ride height (on blocks), with the
correct tires and stagger (no springs). Rock the rear
housing forward to the angle you want, then drill the
holes through the bushing. You will have to run the
bolts a little loose to prevent bind. Weld big washers
on each side to prevent the loose bolt from wearing the
hole into a slot. You can also use upper arms out of a
late 60's chevelle, they are shorter from the factory.
I always preferred shortening the stock ones though,
that way you can line the holes up right. We used to
check for proper bolt tightness by putting the car in
gear (or park) and rocking the car forward and back.
look at the rear arms through the trunk, if the bolts
are too loose, you'll see it. Make sure that every
bushing/frame/mount surface is smooth and lubricated
with anti-seize. Make sure that the spring pockets are
flat after you change the pinion angle.

ENGINE TIPS

ENGINE TIPS:
"5 tips for shaving ET this weekend - Part 1"
By Don Terrill
taken from http://racingsecret.com

1.) More RPM - I've found that it's just about
impossible to have too much (higher number) gear in
your car if your goal is the lowest ETs. Just keep
adding gear ratio until you stop gaining ET, even if
the MPH falls off. Remember: racing is usually ET not
MPH.

2.) Jetting - If I had to guess I'd say that 80% of all
race engines are jetted too rich. Some of the signs of
a rich setting are an engine that misses or surges. Try
jetting down two sizes and see what happens. Learning
how to read spark plugs is my best advice.

3.) Ignition Timing - Go up or down two degrees and
make a test. I've seen engines tuned with just a couple
of degrees too much timing lose 30hp, so don't think
you can't have too much.

4.) Oil - If you aren't using synthetic oil already,
try it, it's worked every time for me. The other big
thing is oil level, on a wet sump engine too much oil
is a killer. No engine needs more than 6gts, no matter
what the pan manufacture says. In fact; too much oil is
bad.

5.) Shift Points - If you're going to miss your shift
point, miss it early. A late shift is an ET killer,
especially in the lower gears. Here's a test: If you
seem to really be knocked back into the seat after the
shift, you're late. The Reason? Your body went forward
before the shift because of lack of acceleration.

For info on how to read spark plugs:
http://racingsecrets.com/spark_plug_reading.shtml